transfer case linkage

i never liked the linkage in my cherokee or mj. a couple weeks ago i saw bs or bk writeup. after looking at his pics and my linkage, i realized it would work if i modified his idea. a couple of pics of my linkage.

after taking off all the linkage, this is what it looks like. also in the bottom left corner is my new linkage.

this pic shows the space with the complete linkage removed.

the reason i changed the size of his linkage is because of the room where it goes. i also i thought i could make it smaller so it would fit closer to the transfer case and away from the driveshaft. i bought hardened 1/4/28 atr x 3' allthread, two nuts and two 1/4 " yoke ends, two clevis pins, and two hairpin cotters the total cost for these items, $14.87. :banana:

the first one i cut worked, but reefing on it i later noticed i bent it. also i added a 1/4 " to it. this way it would go through the threads into the u of the yoke.

also in this picture you can see the measurement from hole to hole on the yokes.

this is a picture of where the shifter handle goes through the transmission tunnel. at the end is the lever that attaches to the linkage. the pin is held by a snap ring.

.

these are three levers i got at the jy.

i got my levers from 80's or 90's chev products. i couldn't find the lever bk noted, but i found a short and longer one. after looking at my setup i thought i could use the shorter one. i think the hole is 7/16, so out with the welder. i put a bolt that just fit, welded it up, then out with the grinder. you can see in the pic the levers are mostly flat.

this is a pic of the lever from the shifter, the shorter one i ended up using and the old lever.

the reason you can't use your old one, the lever needs to point up. like this pic.

at this point i have drilled 17/32 holes, one up from 1/4, off center, as noted in picture.

this next pic shows the holes better. plus i have the shift lever mechanism pit together.

.

another picture of the shift linkage.this pic shows the new linkage and the shifter lever completely installed.

if you notice the two levers are not in line. rain was coming so i thought i would finish the pic. after it drys up, i will remove the transfer case lever, heat it up and bend it to line up. quench it of course. if i need to readjust the linkage i will do it. but it works fine now, however, for long term usage it would work better lined up. i just bent it. it will be more in line now.Image Not Found. i just installed the bent linkage. either i bent it to far or i shouldn't of bent it. so, i'm going to straighten it and call it good. as bkf did, i would get one longer than you need and cut out the hole and redrill your new hole. someday when i go back to the worlds most expensive jy, i will look for one. until then :waving:

two pics of the shift lever with the transmission shifter.

i cut the shifter lever just after the bend so i could use my own knob. the shifter knobs are made from zebra wood from africa. a friend of mine thats retired makes them. a not so shameless plug. if you would like him to made you a knob,[ he's reasonable], his email is frontyardforest@epud.net and his name is mark.

a pic of the shifter knob from my cherokee transmission.

if someone bought my brand new, cut to fit carpet from my mj, for $45.00, i would include the shifter knob. i'm going with stuff from second skin audio for the floor. this item is very hard to store!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

can't drive the mj until my knee heals more, but with all the shifting i did with the lever it works great.

took the mj 4wheeling today

.

the linkage worked great the lever moved about 1/16in. no biggie

Nice job with the adjustable linkage & handle.

I did something similar:

Eliminating the original pivot point,

but I never got past bootie-fabbing/tack welding the stock linkage to get the length right.

(Decided to swap the 231 for something else).

Mine also worked smoothly for me, but I didn't get to try it twisted up, offroad.

I welded the shifter post to the stock L shifter pivot, but I didn't snap any pics when it was all apart. :doh:

Cool variation! That write-up that you saw was probably mine. I just thought I'd throw a link in there in case anybody was interested. :cheers:

http://www.bsfab.net/?p=26

Billy

yeh, that was your link that gave me the direction for the way i went. thanks for your effort!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! : :bowdown: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Why couldn't you just use the stock lever? Turn it 90* clockwise and then flip it over?

the angle is wrong

Couldn't you fix that with the adjustable linkage thou?

Couldn't you fix that with the adjustable linkage thou?

No, if the arm isn't at the right angle, either, you won't get full motion because it'll hit the t-case, or you won't have enough leverage to move it in and out of a fully horizontal position. Basically, you need it to move from about 10 o'clock to 1 o'clock (as seen from the driver's side, inward).

Billy

Great write-up!

I recently swapped to the full-time transfer case in my MJ and I can't adjust the linkage to engage all positions. Do I need to also swap-out my stock command-trac linkage for the full-time linkage?

i don't know what that linkage looks like. but take the linkage off and put it through its cycle. you will see what angle you need for your lever. anybody know the difference in the two linkages?

by comparing yours with the 231 linkage it should give you the angle.

Hey. Was wondering if u might beable to make some for other members. And is there

a way to get it to work wih a 242?

I Just got a new Comanche yesterday and the transfer case was out after getting every thing installed i cannot get the stock linkage right can anyone take a picture of how it should be or describe how it needs to work? thank you

i have a NP231j

I Just got a new Comanche yesterday and the transfer case was out after getting every thing installed i cannot get the stock linkage right can anyone take a picture of how it should be or describe how it needs to work? thank you

 

i have a NP231j

Its in the first pic in the first post...

CW

I bought  a basketcase 1989 MJ and it seems there is an adapter between the  NP242 t-case and AX-15 transmission, which pushes all the stock linkage point on the transmission to the rear of the Jeep about 1-2”.

I've been looking into the cable type shifter kits but it seems like they use the same stock mount points to secure the cable ends to the car and transmission and I'm not sure if there is enough adjustment at both cable ends to make up for the offset.

Has anyone else run into this?

If so what did you do?

I think my best bet is to get the non-cable conversion kit and hope the connecting rod is long enough or a standard thread so I can get a longer rod if needed.

P.S. First post here, longtime wheeler, longtime wheell-ess, first MJ

Thanks in advance

Boostwerks Engineering makes one for the 242, contact them for your specific application. They've been very helpful in the past.

Welcome, post in the registry and start a build thread with lots of pictures!

So I decided to go with the Azzy's linkage. Sine I have a basket case truck it seemed like the most versatile kit since it doesn't connect to the transmission or body mount points like the cable kits. And as it turns out I had o use the alternate installation method the kit offered, figures I always seem to get the oddball everything :-)

Here's some Jeep porn shots for you, enjoy!

Linkage from below

Linkage from side under car

Stock shifter on top, all photos in neutral.