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Project 86 XLS


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Hello

 

 

 

 

 

I bought a 86 2.5 5sp

 

and i swap a 4.0 Auto in

 

 

Then i added a set of rustys 4.5 springs and 1.5 spacers and did a SOA in the rear

 

I also swap the old bench seat for XJ buckets and full console and full guage cluster (pics pending)

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You didn't use the crank sensor from the 4 cyl?

 

double check on your sensors, after our motor swap (4.0-4.0) sometimes it doesnt fire up just cranks and you wiggle the wires that come from the CPS at their connector and vroom vroom...

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I used nothing from the 2.5 engine.I pulled everything out and put all 90 xj parts back in. I slide the motor,trans,transfer case as a single unit and then put all the wring harness in.

That is how I did mine. When I Connected the engine harness to the 86 2.5 bulkhead I couldnt get it to work. The pinout was different. I just removed the fuse panel and the interior harness from the 94 xj installed it in the mj and it fire up.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm thinking of selling the mj above i just don't have the time to fix her up anymore. I went from working 4 days a week to now 6 days (at the paying job) ;) so what do you guys think she's worth

 

I've added the following

 

4 Bilstien shocks

2 Jks swaybar dics

2 Rusty's 4.5 coils

2 1.5in spacers

2 bucket seats

full Center console

Spring over axle conversion

 

 

thanks for the help

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no clue what she's worth and sadly, I have too many.

 

yes, you need to put the fuse box from the xj in it...the stuff from the 2.5 is wrong. the wrong part is the connector at the bulkhead that you connected the 4.0 harness too, all of the "pins" (metal connectors) are in a completely different order.

 

so you swap that in, and she'll fire.

 

oh you will need to do some wire splicing and in this scenario, clamping the wires is NOT a good idea. neither is electrical tape..when it comes to this you should consider soldering it all together.

 

I think you should keep her and work on her every other sunday til she runs...it's only about 4 hours of work left.

 

last thing, on the fuse box, you will be cutting out wires. but you won't be cutting one single wire that's between the fuse box and that bulkhead (firewall) connector. don't. that is the problem area right there, and the point of the fusebox swap is to replace this.

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There are at least 60 wires going from the fuse box to who knows where i would be lost in no time if i did that. Wiring is not my strong point at all!

 

P.S

 

I forgot to add i put YJ brakes lines in the front and dakota line in the rear last week

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There are at least 60 wires going from the fuse box to who knows where i would be lost in no time if i did that. Wiring is not my strong point at all!

 

P.S

 

I forgot to add i put YJ brakes lines in the front and dakota line in the rear last week

 

you'd be splicing about half that. because the other half goes directly to the firewall connector...so that would be the solution to the problem

 

other solution, rip out your dash and put the entire interior harness from the cherokee in it. then the only wires you have to splice are for your rear lights, and your rear speakers and B-column lights.

 

on a scale of 1-10, I'd give the wiring swap a difficulty level of about 3 when it comes down to it.

 

is it costing you money to have around? will it be cool to have functioning when it's done? if the former is no, I suggest keeping it since you're making bank anyways...and fixing it slowly

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  • 1 month later...
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did you swap over the little ballast resistor thats on the fuel pump wire? on the 4.0 it would've been on the drivers side fender area mounted near the vacuum switch for the EGR

 

that thing can crack/break causing the fuel pump to cut out and/or not work somtiems

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  • 6 months later...

Well it's been a while since an update but i've been busy with other things but i did get a few things done here and there

 

RE Lower control arms

RE tie rod, track bar, center link

Trim fenders a little

15x10 Wheels and 35x15.5 tires

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  • 2 years later...

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