front cad axle couple?s

i'm thinking about removing the two piece cad axle and seeing if you can just install a newer single axle and add some type of seal to the old two piece housing.also has anyone noticed a decrease in fuel economy when changing from a cad to non cad style axle?also is there a transfer case that doesn't use vacuum that will bolt straight up to my aw4 without changing driveshafts or anything esle?i know the vacuum only runs the front axle and would be not needed anyway when or if i go to a single passenger side axle but i would like to eliminate some more useless vacuum hoses and junk.

Replacing the CAD with a one-piece axleshaft is common, and you will likely not see any decrease in mileage. You can get the same effect by removing the disconnect housing and installing it upside down, so it holds the shift collar engaged. A lot less work and it will always be locked together.

I wouldn't swap out a working transfer case just to omit the vacuum switch. You can still pull all the vacuum hoses relating to the CAD, and either leave the vacuum switch attached to the transfer case or remove it and find a suitable plug. You don't have to cap the vacuum switch either, nothing can get into the transfer case through the open vacuum ports.

my front axle seals are starting to leak alittle after 23 years and i thought i would replace the two piece with a one piece while it was apart.i've got a friend with a tj that we replaced his axles with usa alloy axles and he said i could have the passenger side one since his original drive side broke anyway so that should be a near freebie.does anybody have a part#for the kit to replace the passenger seal and actuator housing.i've looked under randys and just differentials but didn't see anything there.i'm probably not going to replace the transfer case as it still works great and hasn't been touched in the last 23 years except for change to redline fluid about 10 years ago.i would just to do away with the actuator and damn mess of vacuum hoses.

I have done exactly that. Cut a steel plate to block off the disconnect hole and using a single piece shaft on the passenger side. No measurable difference in fuel economy

You do need to add an oil seal on the passenger side of the pumpkin, though, and the stock seal does not fit. A NAPA 11771 worked for me.

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... dSeals.htm

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415

i used a piece of rubber fuel line to slide the shift fork over and hold the Cad lock Collar in place had to do it due to installing complete 93 cherokee motor trans transfercase and it didnt have the cad in it so i had to do the slide the fork over and lock it in place to make the four wheel drive work

i used a piece of rubber fuel line to slide the shift fork over and hold the Cad lock Collar in place had to do it due to installing complete 93 cherokee motor trans transfercase and it didnt have the cad in it so i had to do the slide the fork over and lock it in place to make the four wheel drive work

You do realize you could have easily installed the CAD upside down and it would have held the collar in the locked position? Works great.

i think i'll just stick to a one piece axle swap.it needs to be taken apart and the seals replaced anyway.

The best thing about the single piece axle swap is the u-joint upgrade. If that doesn't interest you, the many ways to lock & essentially by-pass the CAD look promising.

Bounty Hounter: Can you provide some more info on flipping the cover upside down? I admit that I have never heard of that before and it interests me as a temp measure until an axle upgrade. My CAD actually works, but they seem to fail just when needed most.

Bounty Hounter: Can you provide some more info on flipping the cover upside down? I admit that I have never heard of that before and it interests me as a temp measure until an axle upgrade. My CAD actually works, but they seem to fail just when needed most.

Simply remove the disconnect from the axle, engage the shift collar, and reinstall the disconnect upside down. It holds the collar engaged perfectly, almost as if it was designed for this as a bypass measure LOL. You can do it in a pinch if the disconnect stops working, or flip it and leave it.

I run a manual disconnect so I can run a front spool. Did it in my d30 and purposely installed a disconnect d44 for this option.

I have a posi-lok for my CAD D30, but was discouraged from running a lunch box locker and the posi=lok because of adverse handling?

individual results may vary. I ran a spool up front and with one hub unlocked the torque steer was more than I wanted to deal with. offroad it might be more acceptable. on road sucked. :ack:

With a posi-lok a lunch box locker in the front would be fine. Problem with lunch box lockers in a front axle with 4wd engaged on for example snow is that you can't always steer. Sometimes you will turn the steering wheel and point the front tires, yet keep going straight. With the posi-lok disengaged your passenger front tire will be free wheeling, keeping you tracking where the wheels are pointing to.

A lunch box locker in a front axle without power to is (transfer case in 2wd) is invisible other than the ratcheting noise when making sharp turns.

Ah, the joys of front lockers. :D Damn the steering input, full steam ahead! :yes: But with one side disengaged in my truck, it's just a different kind of fighting with the steering wheel. with only the drivers side hub engaged (ford 44 with spool) and gas applied, my truck turns to the right. when I let off the gas, it turns to the left. it's torque-steer goes nuts. :ack: might be acceptable offroad, but not for pavement.