going to redo my brakes -----*redone*

i ve heard that some of you guy s have re worked the rear breaks so that when you press the brakes the rear tires actually stop mine don't. Ive blead them the right way and still nothing?

i was wanting to know if some one who has done this could write a VERY detailed how to

i asked my jeep shop here he said that he has heard of this but would not do it for me :(

OK.......you bleed the brakes.......Did you Re-adjust the brakes????

The "self adjuster" are not self adjuster, to get proper rear drum brakes, you need to properly adjust the self adjusters.........I know it's sounds :dunce: but I've never seen the "self adjusters" really do the proper job they should.

i was wanting to know if some one who has done this could write a VERY detailed how to

There are a lot of articles written on this subject, so why re-write it????

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... ervice.htm

http://www.familycar.com/brakes.htm

What many of us do is remove the rear height-sensing proportioning valve. The how-to has been written up multiple times on this forum, and IIRC there was a thread discussing it within the past week or two.

The flaw with the self-adjusters is that they only self-adjust when the brakes are applied firmly in reverse. Because the rear proportioning valve basically doesn't let any pressure go to the rear wheels if the truck isn't heavily loaded, the adjusters simply never get engaged. Once the rear proportioning valve has been removed, if you keep the self-adjusters clean they should work as intended.

okay i am not confident to remove the proportioning valve my self with no directions

i have no idea how to do this what tools i need ect

never done any thing with brake lines before

Did you Re-adjust the brakes????

been there done that :smart:

How close did you adjust the brakes, they should be to where you can hear them drag just a little bit on the drums as you turn them freely.

okay i am not confident to remove the proportioning valve my self with no directions

 

i have no idea how to do this what tools i need ect

 

never done any thing with brake lines before

 

Did you Re-adjust the brakes????

 

been there done that :smart:

READ the links provided.

From the sounds of it, your better off paying someone to do this for you... Going into it and trying to explain it to you would be harder than the actual job at hand..... :roll: :roll:

No offence, but you should have at least a basic knoledge of what your asking before you ask how to do it. Read more and ask questions about what you don't understand about what you read, go from there... Many of us are happy to help. But those explinations are from the understanding taht the guy has a basic knoledge of how things work and how to do them.

CW

Eliminating the rear proportioning valve, if done properly (which means the way I think it should be done :smart: ) involves replacing the two steel lines from the front of the truck to the rear axle with one, NEW steel line. I've seen too many ruptured lines on older Cherokees and Comanches to trust the condition of 20-year old steel tubing. And to replace the line to the rear, you will be doing some custom bending and flaring of steel brake tubing. If you are not comfortable doing that, and don't have the tools to do a proper double flare ... then as CJLongshot suggests, you are better off paying to have it done. The only thing worse than bad brakes is NO brakes. They are not something to fool around with.

A good start might be installing a double diaphragm booster if you havent already.

A good start might be installing a double diaphragm booster if you havent already.

I have to comment on an experience that happened this afternoon regarding braking on my MJ. The Commander has me redoing one of the bathrooms, and we went to Lowes this morning to pick up the vanity and tiles and other junk. I have the Metric Ton springs, and have installed rear disk brakes and the 96 dual diaphram booster and retained the load sensing valve. After the truck was loaded, it dropped about 2" in the back due to the weight, that I estimated was close to a ton - lots of d@mn tiles. Some dude in a BMW slammed on his brakes in front of me at 65 MPH to avoid a jacka$$ who pulled out in front of him, so I slammed the brakes, and the rear locked up, then immediately the front locked up, and we came to a complete stop nice and straight with room to spare. :eek: Cracked a few tiles when the load slid forward, but I'm sure a whole lot more than tiles would have been cracked if the brake load sensing valve didn't work as it should. I'm keepin' it as long as it keeps working, and if and when it gives it up, I'll replace it with a Toyota or similar valve.

I have to comment on an experience that happened this afternoon regarding braking on my MJ. The Commander has me redoing one of the bathrooms, and we went to Lowes this morning to pick up the vanity and tiles and other junk. I have the Metric Ton springs, and have installed rear disk brakes and the 96 dual diaphram booster and retained the load sensing valve. After the truck was loaded, it dropped about 2" in the back due to the weight, that I estimated was close to a ton - lots of d@mn tiles. Some dude in a BMW slammed on his brakes in front of me at 65 MPH to avoid a jacka$$ who pulled out in front of him, so I slammed the brakes, and the rear locked up, then immediately the front locked up, and we came to a complete stop nice and straight with room to spare. :eek: Cracked a few tiles when the load slid forward, but I'm sure a whole lot more than tiles would have been cracked if the brake load sensing valve didn't work as it should. I'm keepin' it as long as it keeps working, and if and when it gives it up, I'll replace it with a Toyota or similar valve.

A good start might be installing a double diaphragm booster if you havent already.

Installing a double diaphragm booster is a lot of work and expense that will accomplish NOTHING if the rear proportioning valve doesn't allow any pressure to the rear wheels.

A good start might be installing a double diaphragm booster if you havent already.

Installing a double diaphragm booster is a lot of work and expense that will accomplish NOTHING if the rear proportioning valve doesn't allow any pressure to the rear wheels.

:agree: BUT if it still works and is not all rusted out like the junk in MI and MN, :D I'd keep it if you haul loads occasionally. Or install an aftermarket Wilwood prop valve and tune it in. :cheers:

:agree: BUT if it still works and is not all rusted out like the junk in MI and MN, :D I'd keep it if you haul loads occasionally. Or install an aftermarket Wilwood prop valve and tune it in. :cheers:

i know what I'm talking about guys and have the knowledge to do this but i need to know to do this

(there was a first time for you too)

so do i need to cap a line here re-connect there ?

i can do it but need to know how.

a link would be great but the ones i read didnt help much

i know what I'm talking about guys and have the knowledge to do this but i need to know to do this

(there was a first time for you too)

so do i need to cap a line here re-connect there ?

i can do it but need to know how.

a link would be great but the ones i read didnt help much

I'm keepin' it as long as it keeps working, and if and when it gives it up, I'll replace it with a Toyota or similar valve.

But it didn't work as it should. The rears should never lock before the fronts. When they do, that's when you get spin-outs.

And that IS the risk in removing or disabling the rear valve -- you get MORE braking to the rear than you need when running light, and greatly increase the likelihood of premature rear lockup in a panic stop. I have accepted that as a conscious decision. We didn't have proportioning valves when I grew up and learned to drive. I can deal with too much brakes. I can't deal with not enough brakes.

I'm keepin' it as long as it keeps working, and if and when it gives it up, I'll replace it with a Toyota or similar valve.

But it didn't work as it should. The rears should never lock before the fronts. When they do, that's when you get spin-outs.

And that IS the risk in removing or disabling the rear valve -- you get MORE braking to the rear than you need when running light, and greatly increase the likelihood of premature rear lockup in a panic stop. I have accepted that as a conscious decision. We didn't have proportioning valves when I grew up and learned to drive. I can deal with too much brakes. I can't deal with not enough brakes.

i have no idea how to do this what tools i need ect

 

never done any thing with brake lines before

i know what I'm talking about guys and have the knowledge to do this but i need to know to do this

Which is it? First you said you don't even know what tools you need, then you say you have the knowledge to do it ... except you don't know what to do. We're not trying to keep any insider secrets here, but the things you need to do HAVE been thoroughly described in at least three previous threads. You WILL be flaring brake tubing, and that requires making double flares. The cheap tools for that don't work, so don't even bother. The good double flare tools sell for $75 and up these days, IIRC.

so do i need to cap a line here re-connect there ?

No, you need to remove BOTH hard lines from the front brake metering block to the rear of the truck. Then you plug the metering block outlet on the bottom, and run a single new line from the "nose" of the metering block directly to the flex hose on the rear axle. That's it.

i have no idea how to do this what tools i need ect

 

never done any thing with brake lines before

i know what I'm talking about guys and have the knowledge to do this but i need to know to do this

Which is it? First you said you don't even know what tools you need, then you say you have the knowledge to do it ... except you don't know what to do. We're not trying to keep any insider secrets here, but the things you need to do HAVE been thoroughly described in at least three previous threads. You WILL be flaring brake tubing, and that requires making double flares. The cheap tools for that don't work, so don't even bother. The good double flare tools sell for $75 and up these days, IIRC.

so do i need to cap a line here re-connect there ?

No, you need to remove BOTH hard lines from the front brake metering block to the rear of the truck. Then you plug the metering block outlet on the bottom, and run a single new line from the "nose" of the metering block directly to the flex hose on the rear axle. That's it.

than you that what i needed m friend has the tools to do the job and did the brakes on his el-comino.

i could use a diagram of the metering block so i know what to take off and where the new line needs to be added

than you that what i needed m friend has the tools to do the job and did the brakes on his el-comino.

i could use a diagram of the metering block so i know what to take off and where the new line needs to be added

Probably have to adjust the rod length from the valve arm to the axle length a bit shorter then Eagle. I extended the rod about 3" to compensate for the lift originally, but it's prolly settled about 1/2" since I put the new rear packs in two years ago. But the rears did lock up first instantaneously just before the fronts w. the heavy load today, and it was a good controlled stop screaming stop. But w/o a load, the fronts always lock up first on a panic stop. Thanks, will take care of that tomorrow.

Probably have to adjust the rod length from the valve arm to the axle length a bit shorter then Eagle. I extended the rod about 3" to compensate for the lift originally, but it's prolly settled about 1/2" since I put the new rear packs in two years ago. But the rears did lock up first instantaneously just before the fronts w. the heavy load today, and it was a good controlled stop screaming stop. But w/o a load, the fronts always lock up first on a panic stop. Thanks, will take care of that tomorrow.