Abandoning load sensor dingy?

This has been brought up before but I wasn't able to find anything via the search. Mine hasn't been hooked up in a long time and it's time to go.

What's involved with taking out the load sensor in the brake system? Who has done it?

Thanks! :cheers:

Mines LONG gone!!

I ran for some time with just a new line from the front to the back a hose to the union on the axle out to each wheel cylinder. NO PROBLEMS!! Yea, if I heavy footed the brake the rear would lock up first... but so did every single CPU I ever drove!!! (Sans the brandy new anti lock junk.)

You will have to search, I just do not remember which hose you plug. I wanna say the one in the nose, but DO NOT QUOTE ME, as I am not sure. One is a return sensing line the other is the actual brake line. BTW, you will get a brake light on, on the dash.

You could also swap in an XJ proportioning block/valve into the system in places of the junction block the MJ's have.

Its in that same post from Eagle you are going to search for. :brows: :D

CW

Who has done it?

Just about everyone :D

This is one write up on the rear height leveling valve = Here.

When I did mine, I used the MJ porp valve, and used the 'Tee' to tie in the front port and front lower port at the Proportioning valve.

This is also a good time to re-pipe the entire system, running all new lines from the front to the rear axle, replacing the soft line, and to the wheel cylinders.

Excellent! Thanks guys! :cheers:

Where do you get new lines from the block to the back axle? Any generic auto parts store or is this a stealership item?

Also, It seems people are just plugging their MJ prop valves as opposed to replacing it with an XJ valve. Has everyone had more success with this method?

I traced the return line, removed it. re-did the rear of the factory sender line because it was wrapped with that spring crap, and i figured if it wasn't rusty now it would be soon. plumbed that to my rear brake hose.

went up front, removed the MJ prop valve, installed the XJ prop valve. the xj and mj one look very similar, and by looking at the xj one you will see which line you will need to remove.

install, re-bleed ALL brakes, and you're now good to go.

I traced the return line, removed it. re-did the rear of the factory sender line because it was wrapped with that spring crap, and i figured if it wasn't rusty now it would be soon. plumbed that to my rear brake hose.

 

went up front, removed the MJ prop valve, installed the XJ prop valve. the xj and mj one look very similar, and by looking at the xj one you will see which line you will need to remove.

 

install, re-bleed ALL brakes, and you're now good to go.

Thats how its done!! Well said!!

CW

 

Where do you get new lines from the block to the back axle? Any generic auto parts store or is this a stealership item?

I don't know if the dealership can even get the brake lines???

Paging Dr. Taz........

But, we all covered this before.........right Here. And right Here.

And all the info you should need is there. I've alway make my own brake lines, and Double Flair the fittings, once you get the hang of it, it's easy, and a lot less costly.

And......if your going this far, replace that 20 year old soft line from the body to the axle, RAYBESTOS Part # BH381089 Rear; Center; Short Bed $13.93 (Rockauto.com) And save yourself some trouble latter.

Get the longer '95 Dakota soft rear brake line and you'll be prepared for later lifting. :brows:

If you are keeping the MJ front metering block (it is not a proprtioning valve on the MJ, although it is in the XJ), you plug the forward outlet on the bottom, and you use the outlet on the "nose" to feed the rear brakes.

Notice I screwed up and originally used the wrong port. :roll:

Notice I screwed up and originally used the wrong port. :roll:

 

Yeah, but you're forgiven, 'cause you made such an elegant patcherooski.

Where'd you guys pick up the plug for the prop valve? Auto parts store?

Where'd you guys pick up the plug for the prop valve? Auto parts store?

hardware.

plumbing section.

i forget the thread, but it's like 3/8" pipe thread i believe. I can try and find out for you, but you should be able to simply walk in to the parts store and tell them what you need as well. parts stores DO have plumbing hardline as well, but for some reason I just trust the local hardware store more than advance auto or napa :redX:

 

Where do you get new lines from the block to the back axle? Any generic auto parts store or is this a stealership item?

 

 

I don't know if the dealership can even get the brake lines???

 

Paging Dr. Taz........

 

It is not hard to make your own though, just be sure you get the correct tubing bender and it will be a pretty simple job.

Where'd you guys pick up the plug for the prop valve? Auto parts store?

 

hardware.

 

plumbing section.

 

i forget the thread, but it's like 3/8" pipe thread i believe. I can try and find out for you, but you should be able to simply walk in to the parts store and tell them what you need as well. parts stores DO have plumbing hardline as well, but for some reason I just trust the local hardware store more than advance auto or napa :redX:

To blank off the unused port? It isn't a pipe thread, it's a straight thread. It's either a 5/16" or 3/8" fine thread machine bolt. You won't find one short enough, so to do it neat you have to cut it off. I chopped mine and put an o-ring under the head. In reality, it'll probably work if you leave it sticking out and tighten it down so the end of the bolt digs into the old seat and makes it's own seal, but I wanted a neater appearance.

*shrug*

threads aren't my thing. i just go and get what fits, and usually bring an example with me to figure it out.

i ripped mine right out as soon as i got my truck. i still have 2 lines goin to the back. i hope to hve it down to 1 line before winter. and also i up graded to the 95 master and booster. :USAflag:

just to give you an example, I wasn't around when my dad did the xj prop valve swap on the 3800, and really didn't know what was involved. I had the proper parts for the swap in the 87, but just didn't wanna deal with the swap.

was mid-lift with the last thing to do being the brakes, and weld the rear spring perches. the prop valve swap took all of two hours, because I had to rebuild brake lines in the rear, removed the line i didn't need, and there just isn't much room for someone with big hands to get in at the prop valve.